The only to remove that tuning is with a DSP.Ī crossover over isn't just a straight cut off, it's on a slope. Whether or not they sound good is a different story, cause even if the frequencies are there honda applied their own tuning to make their shit speakers sound the best they can. Unless you're adding a summing device and further amplifying your speakers the only way to have the correct frequencies present is to utilize the already present channels. Since the active crossovers are most likely a band pass filter (unless honda is dumb) in the mid (4.5in speaker) and high pass filter for the tweeter essentially placing a coax in just the mid channels has the mid working and the tweeter doing basically nothing. Just put an inline cap to serve as a protective crossover. These speakers come with an inline crossover rather than a separate box but you could cut off the crossover and let them amp do all the work. The crossovers are built into the amp and coaxs aren't different then components but rather then separating the mid and tweeter they're attached the way the tweeter gets it's signal is from the mids terminals. Since the rear channels aren't passive like I thought originally components really are the only way to upgrade the factory speakers in the rear without upgrading to a different amp. Here's a 5 1/4 component system that'll be similar to those ref coax's and they're similar in price. Also I did some searching and it looks like infinity likes 3 Ohms. Although, 3 ohms I doubt the amp will double the power so you'd hardly notice a difference. Like they said resistance is only going to give you more sound. I jumped through a few hoops with this issue earlier this year. But then at least the performance of the speakers themselves would be the reasons for the differences in sound and not the differences in front/rear outputs of the head unit. Series would yield 8 if my math is correct. Doing this in parallel should yield 2 Ohms. But if I had to live with the DSP I believe I'd just wire the rear speakers to run off of the same signal as the fronts (and fade the signal to 100% front on the HU since there wouldn't be a load on the rear channels). If have since bought an '18 LX which is easier to modify. I just wanted to voice caution if you had an irrational or overly optimistic expectation. But know that you're putting a bigger demand on it. But it sounds like that amp is rated to do that without shutting down. This is when I discovered Honda's DSP processing and how the source of the less-than-desirable sound was more likely due to the stereo and not necessarily the speakers.Ĭertainly try the 3 Ohms if you want. The rear channels sounded weak and anemic through those speakers too. Then I connected a pair of bookshelf speakers that I knew very well and knew to be really, really nice. I did this when I bought my '19 Sport and I was really underwhelmed with the sound. You can hear what it is and isn't by just setting the fader to rear speakers only. And it seems set to be lower by default when the fader is set to the middle position. The signal being sent to the rear channels is a filtered, altered, and not very desirable-to-the-ear mix of 'filler' meant to compensate for and compliment what's coming out of the front channels.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |